Mosey Guide (mg): What is your connection to Brunswick Heads?

Wal Foster (wf): I was born in Grafton and grew up in a tiny town called Pillar Valley on the coast. I’d holiday and visit Byron as a kid — I remember seeing the goats on the cliffs at the lighthouse and always thought the place was magic. I recently found out the lighthouse keeper kept goats for milk back in the day; they bred fast and escaped into the wild around the lighthouse and Wategos. Eventually they had to get wiped out, but there was 1 goat they could never capture and it became legendary. They called it Wategoat. Love that story.

I visited my friend Karina in Byron on a visit back from Sweden. She took me to Whites Beach (Broken Head) and then a full day at Brunz River, paddle boarding. At the time my mum was beginning to get sick. I decided to sell my restaurant shortly after and moved to Brunswick Heads.

I have lived here for 6 years now. I’ve never felt more settled in an area in my life. My business is well supported here, I have a loving partner Rhi, and I really love the people who call the Northern Rivers home.

What really keeps me here is the access to spray-free produce — everything from Indigenous ingredients to subtropical and tropical fruits, organic meat and the freshest seafood. Our local New Brighton farmers markets are out of this world.

(mg) What does Brunswick Heads mean to you?

(wf) For me, it was a huge transition from 6.5 years of living abroad in cold and dark Sweden, to this contrast of vibrant food, stunning environment and warm people.

I started working at Harvest under chef Ally Waddel and forager Peter Hardwick, as I wanted to learn everything I could about this Indigenous food scene that was exploding at the time. I’m so very grateful for my time there. It really set me on my path — I met loads of wonderful producers that I have really aligned with and have worked with continuously through the seasons.

For me personally, Brunswick Heads feels like home.

(mg) How does being in the Northern Rivers shape what you do?

(wf) Something that really rubbed off on me in Sweden was the New Nordic philosophy of time and place.

I find what is in season locally and work backwards to create my food — it ensures maximum flavour and nutritional content. Eating seasonally naturally creates a more diverse diet — we shouldn’t be eating strawberries all year round.

(mg) What makes Brunswick Heads different from other places you’ve lived or worked?

(wf) I’ve always felt very supported here, whereas other cities I’ve worked in have been highly competitive. The culture of being a chef is changing for the better and I’m so proud to be a part of it — restaurants like Pipit are leading the charge, supporting girl gang dinners and young chef mentor programs. It’s really inspiring for up and coming chefs.

(mg) What does your perfect day in Brunswick Heads look like?

(wf) Waking to my partner Rhi as the sunrise hits our room, a Beam coffee and surf check from the balcony. Watering our garden, then heading to Seagulls for a surf. Finding a pandanus tree to collapse under, and reading Ben Shewry’s Uses for Obsession. Heading home and making something tasty from the garden.

A dinner in Brunz is usually La Casita or my all time fave, Roco Ramen, where the team just nail it every time.

(mg) Who are the other makers, creators, or people in the region that inspire you?

(wf) I’ve always taken loads of inspiration from Ben Devlin at Pipit. Ben’s philosophy to food makes me want to be a better chef. He’s also a great leader in the kitchen and a great dad.

Ally Waddel at Fridas Field — hands down the best chef I know.

Rebecca Barnes at Playing With Fire — Rebecca taught me loads about Indigenous food and culture. Plus she has done wonderful things for the Indigenous food industry over the years.

Pete Hardwick — Pete is the best forager I know. He’s an encyclopedia of information about Indigenous and “feral” produce, as he puts it. Pete has supported me endlessly over the years and he’s been a bit of a mentor. I use his fermented Pandanus fruit and kombucha vinegar on my menu today — he captured the pandanus SCOBY 13 years ago and the same culture is still going strong in my ice creams.

John & Lyndal Picone at Picone Exotics — With a 20 year old fruit orchard of over 400 trees, all covered by fruit fly mesh, John and Lyndal produce the best spray-free fruit I’ve ever tasted, or will ever taste. I’ve often said John will be spoken of as the fruit whisperer for years to come. He won’t sell fruit unless it’s perfect — from hand pollinated vanilla beans, to several varieties of figs, this might be the best fruit on the planet. John talks to his trees and feels them welcome him when he returns to the orchard, like an old friend.

Spike Greenwood — Spike has 7 chemical-free bee hives in my backyard. He works tirelessly all over the shire saving bees that have swarmed, and fights Varoa mite without chemicals. He’s also a very good human who I look up to.

Phillipa Sumbak — Few chefs make food as delicious as Pip. Pip doesn’t hold her punches when it comes to Flav. Also my best mate.

(mg) What are you working on right now that excites you?

(wf) Today I’m putting the finishing touches on my new website, FIRE & ICE CREAM. I will offer what I call Tailored Events, food cooked over fire followed by Bush Icecreamery desserts — fire-cooked food followed by silky smooth ice-cream is just a wonderful combination. I’m really proud of this offering and can’t wait to share it.

(mg) What is the most memorable trip you’ve taken?

(wf) Vietnam and Japan, back to back. Vietnam was a riot of flavours and people living on top of each other. Japan was controlled, respectful and clean, just like the food. I loved them both.

(mg) Where is your next travel destination?

(wf) I’m calling it the holy trinity — Thailand, South Korea and Japan. I’m heading to Thailand for a friend’s wedding and reunion of Swedish friends, I’m taking Rhi, and then we are continuing on a food journey.

(mg) How has travel changed the way you see the world?

(wf) Travelling has been the best thing that has happened to me. It gave me perspective and eventually direction. It’s a big, inspiring world and I’m very excited to start travelling again soon. Learning a new culture through food experiences is my absolute fave.

(mg) If you could recommend anywhere in the world for a mosey, where would it be?

(wf) San Sebastián — the Basque people are just so passionate about every bit of their culture. Food and wine is their life.

I stayed at a hostel 2 doors from a Jamon Imberico shop — all they sold was the world’s best ham on bread, with very good olive oil, sliced to order (possibly the best lunch on the planet). Next to that was endless Pintxos, and one of my fave wines, txakoli, was found everywhere (which is poured into a glass from a hight to create a slight carbonation). Brekkie was tortilla, before hitting cheesecake. It’s also where I learnt to surf.

Local knowledge

Favourite local ingredient or product:
Atherton Raspberry

Best swim spot:
Christmas Beach

What to do beyond the beach:
Waterfall hunting

Best coffee in the region:
Beam Coffee at Happy Days

Favourite shop:
Tip Shop, Ballina

Go-to spot to reset or find inspiration:
Surfing Seagulls then New Brighton farmers market

Northern Rivers’ must-eats:
Bar Heather (Byron Bay)
Raes on Wategos (Byron Bay)
Happy Days (Byron Bay)
High Life (Byron Bay)
Ciao Mate (Bangalow)
Osteria Morelli (Lennox Head)
Roco Ramen (Brunswick Heads)
La Casita (Brunswick Heads)
Salty Mangrove (New Brighton)
Bistro Livi (Murwillumbah)
Pipit (Pottsville)

Northern Rivers’ best kept secret:
$10 cheeseburgers at the Ocean Shores Tav

24 hours in Bruns:
High Life for breaky
Salty Mangrove for lunch
Roco Ramen for dinner
Bruns pub for music